The boat ride down the Mekong from just south of Siem Reap was rapid and mercifully smooth, and the alternate huge expanses of blueish water and green fields were calming. And Phnom Penh is a delightful city. Getting to our guest house was an experience, though! I perched on the back of a moped, one bag on my back and the other between the driver's legs. Then we took on the city's excitable traffic, the back wheel labouring against the rear mudguard that was suffering under my considerable weight!

Our guest house was in a small road surrounded by other hotels and small restaurant/bars. In all, a relaxing spot. The food was excellent everywhere we went, and if we hadn't been rushing to see Andy & Duyen in Ho Chi Minh City I think I would have liked to spend a bit more time here.

The city has much to show the visitor, including splendid royal palaces and temples. But one "attraction" stands out: Tuol Sleng, a former high school that was converted into a prison and used by the Khmer Rouge to torture and kill hundreds of Cambodians during their reign of terror. Just outside the city lie the famous Killing Fields, where thousands were executed. These crimes are so horrible that my mind refuses to comprehend them. The only time I have felt this way before is when visiting Nazi concentration camps.

To cope with the aftermath of the death of one person is already a struggle; to deal with the wanton destruction of so many lives is nigh-on impossible. And yet the Cambodians we met were without exception friendly and warm-hearted. I am humbled.

The journey to Ho Chi Minh City was much more comfortable than the trip to Siem Reap. The road has clearly been recently improved. And Saigon was deliciously different to the cities we had visited already. Somehow, despite the churning traffic, it radiated a pleasant charm and a promise of comfort. Or was that me imagining Andy & Duyen's new house?

Andy came to meet me & Frankie in the travellers' area of town and his driver drove us to his house, where we met Duyen and little Finlay - only eight weeks old! It was so lovely to see Andy & Duyen again, and to meet their pride & joy. Pity he looks so much like his dad!

The next few days were thoroughly relaxing. The weather was hot and sunny, and Frankie & I made good use of the swimming pool. Duyen's mother was on hand for a few days to help with the baby and cook fabulous food for us all at lunchtimes, whilst in the evenings Andy took us to swish restaurants and rooftop hotel bars. Truly a lovely few days!

We made our way by bus to Nha Trang, where we decided to stay for a day and two nights to break our journey. It turned out to be a great decision, because the weather was splendid and the boat trip we took was great too. I did a couple of dives and Frankie did some great snorkelling. We met a really nice crowd of people on the boat, and arranged to all meet up for dinner. It turned into quite a drunken affair, which was nice for a change.

My head wasn't feeling too good the next day as we got back on the bus, this time to make our way to Hoi An. And indeed, the weather was bleaker, the sea more washed-out and the skies grey. In Hoi An we had to put on proper shoes for the first time, it was so chilly!

More soon...

The ride to Angkor was chilly; a new experience after sweating the last week or so in Thailand. It was not yet light, and through the tall trees lining the avenue north from Siem Reap (literally "Thais Vanquished" - what a PC name for a town only a few hours from Thailand!) I could see a few late stars twinkling. The pre-dawn peace was delicate and soothed my ears. This beautiful serenity was heightened by the looming bulk of Angkor Wat, towering over us as we walked along its long causeway toward the central temple.

We watched the sun slowly rise up over the complex, accompanied by hundreds of hushed tourists and the bright splashes of light from scattered cameras. Then, when day was upon us, we walked into the temple and marvelled at its graceful statuary and intricate architectural details.

The next temple we explored was Bayon. Or Thomas the Temple, as I like to think of it: there are dozens of enormous Buddha heads sticking out of towers across this magnificent edifice, and the resemblance to the lovable children's train character is uncanny! The temple is striking in other, more sensible ways too: all around the base wall, there are friezes depicting such subjects as Khmer battles with neighbouring peoples and grand religious processions.

There are many many temples in the Angkor complex. I won't describe them all in detail, but I will pick out highlights:

Ta Prohm has been left as it was found in 18th century, with the forest slowly reclaiming the temple precinct. There are trees growing out of walls and through windows, literally engulfing chunks of masonry.

Banteay Kdei feels more like a modest stately home than a temple, set in its pleasant parklands and boasting delightful inner courtyards.

Neak Pean is set around a huge square fountain, now dry, and must have gloried in a glitter of diamond light scattered upwards from its waters in times past.

Phnom Bakcheng, built on a steep hill, offered a gorgeous vista westwards to the wooded flatlands and the setting sun. Although it felt more like a crowded Tube platform, there were so many tourists enjoying the view!

Frankie & I were brought back to our hotel by our trusty moped guides, and went early to bed partly through the exertions of a busy day walking among hot ruins and partly in preparation for the next day's long river journey to the capital, Phnom Penh.